jinian: (learning kyo)
It really seems like Japanese people believe that their language is ONE HUNDRED PERCENT IMPENETRABLE. I am fairly good at languages, but picking up the kanji for "water" and noticing it's also used for "Wednesday" is not an advanced-level thing and doesn't really warrant "wow you are so amazing" levels of praise. It's mostly that (1) I need to decode some things, like in the grocery store and trains, so I use a tiny dictionary, and (2) I am a compulsive reader, so if there's text I'm going to try to puzzle it out. Turns out when you try to learn things you may enjoy the occasional success!
jinian: (grumpy)
They don't even have mashed potatoes at the KFC here. It's all french fries. Also the biscuit looked wrong. INCORRECT SIDE DISHES, JAPAN.

(Other than that I am fine; emailing with family and friends has been helpful.)

thankful

Nov. 22nd, 2012 09:42 pm
jinian: (queen of cups)
Sunset tonight, clear and chill and soothing with a first-quarter moon.

Pinafored little girls stompling in the ground cover on campus.

The lovely gloves I got in Kyoto last weekend: dark brown leather with lime-green topstitching, lined with lime-green knit, matching my adorable new umbrella.

My two packages from people, especially as I now have my heating pad. (Not thankful for damned customary holiday cramps; maybe this is early enough I'll be okay for Xmas.)

Ebook companies that pay attention to my billing address rather than my IP address.

All you great people that I know.

Getting to live in Japan for three months, damn, how cool is that.

Chocolate cake for my roommate's birthday.

A map of words for pillbugs.

Science!

Beautiful things to make, admire, have, and give.
jinian: (bad wolf)
I've been commuting an hour-plus each way to a conference in Okazaki for the last three days. Fascinating and exhausting, as is usual for conferences. My head was turned big-time today by Japan's biggest evo-devo guy, who is a ball of knowledge and ideas and seems very friendly. Sooo tired now, though. NOT going to the lab this evening, despite how I could start things and do things. (Shut up, anxiety, we are not doing it.)

A tiny detour on the way from the train station to the conference center allows one to go by this lovely pond near a shrine and admire the ducks.

[Those tiny dots and dashes are Morse ducks, I promise]

I love how all the cities in Japan have their own pretty drain covers. I'm sure people think I'm nuts to photograph them, but who cares?

[Okazaki Castle, fireworks, and perhaps-unseasonable flowering trees]

There are a number of ways to get to and from the conference center using the same basic trains, and tonight I experimentally got off at Horita station only to find that my transfer to the subway was in another castle several blocks away, without good signage. While exploring I got veggies and meats, and found that one of the supermarket's posted slogans was "Various appetite materials want to employ you," which was worth every minute of confusion.

(Sometime soon, posts about the fun stuff I've been doing!)
jinian: (grumpy)
At conference all day. Filled with hate despite cool science. (Well, awkward situation with PI is awkward, but.)

Found international market at Kanayama Station on the way home! Overpriced as fuck, but had Indian and Thai and American food OMG. Once I go to a market with more than three veggies in it, there will be green curry.

Currently eating the HELL out of a can of Hormel chili with cheddar tortilla chips while HIDING IN MY ROOM.
jinian: (tomoyo)
I have come to realize that Seattle has no true fabric store. Otsukaya is a multifloor paradise of the ridiculous and sublime. It may be the thing I will miss most about Japan.

Three images )
jinian: (birdsquee)
I went out on Saturday night! I didn't entirely feel like it, but the Metro Club is only once a month. This month was their 20-year anniversary for holding this queer dance in Japan, so I figured it'd be worth seeing at least for a bit.

Doors opened at 10; I got there a bit before 11[*] and left a bit after 2. The place started filling up around midnight, and there was a drag and semi-stripping show shortly after that. Later it got smoky and crowded and louder, resulting in sore throat, no fun dancing, failure to talk to people, and annoyed ears. Apparently the party goes until "at least" 5, but I was done.

The music was monotonous, boring dance stuff, but getting better by the time I left. I think they saved the good tunes for later, when more people would be around. We were starting to get Men Without Hats, so I assume that Erasure, Madonna, and Gaga would have been forthcoming at some point.

People talked to me: I made friends with a maybe-gay boy from China immediately, and learned a lot about how fucking dire his situation is. He had a gay uncle who disappeared for a long time, and China is apparently rife with conversion therapy. I didn't know what to say, except, experiment while you're here and maybe you have a terrible choice to make. (Is there some online tool for Chinese homosexuals to meet each other for beard acquisition? I'm sure it's filtered out if there is, but if they're outside of China... It's all so terrible.) He offered to sleep with me but I didn't want to and I don't think he did either. He kept looking at guys and they kept having boyfriends, poor kid.

A boy from New Jersey was the first one dancing, and he was happy when I came to dance too (after a couple other people did). We shouted at each other briefly.

A Japanese girl thought I was someone else.

Brazilian guys chatted to me for a while; apparently I was straight-looking, as that's what they asked early on. Uh, no. One offered me white tablets and said they were candy. Rather a first for me. You enjoy those yourself, good sir!

A couple of Spanish-speaking boys caught me as I was heading home and complimented me, in that usual way in Japan where they first say how not-Japanese I look. (More salutary experiences for white people! Being exotic: not actually fun!) They seemed pretty entertaining, but I was outa there.

I even approached a person myself: this cute Brazilian butch in aviator glasses. Like a lot of the non-Japanese people there, she's a proper expat, been in Japan for seven years. There were a few students, too, and a lot of Japanese people, only some of whom seemed to be queer. And drag queens! One of them seemed to be the person who runs the event -- very tall, very friendly, very flaming of course. With plumes I swear this one person was eight feet tall.

I successfully hailed a taxi and took it home, despite the residence's business card not working as advertised. The driver looked at it and said "Nagoya Daigaku?" and I said sure. School is close enough. By the time we got there I was looking nervously at the meter, having been so unwise as to buy an extra drink in the bar (note: their gimlet was really great), and let him drop me so I could walk the rest of the way home.

I'd forgotten that non-Seattle places may still allow smoking indoors. Luckily I had planned to shower anyway, but my clothes got banished to the balcony. I crashed about 4am and slept until 11. (I honestly thought it was about 7 when I woke up, but it was just rainy. Yay sleep!) Yesterday was aftermath/pajama/internet-outage day -- somehow both my arms were really sore? -- and here I am back being verbose tonight.

* I had to keep watching Community until Troy and Abed made up, okay? Besides, I knew it would be quiet early on.
jinian: (birdsquee)
Gay club night: pretty damned great, lots of English speakers, feet and strangely shoulders are sore, more anon. Snack and then sleep now.
(Note: there are no actual stairs.)

In only one aspect, my dorm life is starting to remind me strongly of William Sleator's creepy YA novel House of Stairs. We have motion-controlled lights, and we are being classically conditioned.

Bedrooms have normal light switches. Three-position switches allow you to turn the lights all the way on or all the way off in the public rooms, which is a fine thing to do in the toilet stalls during the day or when you're trying not to wake up all the way, respectively. (Not so good when people turn them on and then wander away assuming they'll turn themselves off.) In the hallways, though, motion detection is the only option I've found, which means when you're hanging out in the hallway talking to people and not actually pacing or anything, the lights will frequently shut off.

And then we all start waving our arms. The electronic eyes (which I would actually like to be more all-seeing, they've got these annoying blind spots) flash red and give us our lights back.

For a while, until we have to perform again.

The other deeply unsettling thing about the dorm is actually a thing about Japan as a whole: there is no oven in the kitchen. Two microwaves, two refrigerators, two induction-heating and one radiant-heating burners... and a little "grill" drawer that you can put, say, grocery-store tempura into to heat it up.

[I had just assumed there was an oven here]

[And I was worried about not having a cookie sheet]

Is there any place in the English-speaking world that you would possibly have a real stovetop range but no OVEN? This is truly shocking and upsetting to me, as I am a stress-baker deprived of nearly all outlet. I guess I could make and eat cookie dough, which is what I mostly do at home anyway, but not having the option for baking is like wearing a chastity belt or something, it takes the joy out of the stages prior to completion.

You may have noticed I made pie recently. This is because the lab office has an oven, the total capacity of which I estimate at about 15L. My colleagues are shocked at the energy inefficiency of giant, electric American ovens. Actually, I'm not sure they believe me that such ovens exist, though I think they acknowledge the existence of giant, culturally necessary turkeys. Our Russian student has also corroborated my assertion. (The ovens. Well, turkeys too, actually.) When I had lunch with my co-TA and some students today, we discussed this important matter, which distresses her as well. At least I have oven-deprivation commiseration.
jinian: (sharp dressed woman)
I love, love, love that I can get hot drinks in a can from Japanese vending machines. Love it.

Also I finally got to wear my presentation-giving dress to give a presentation! I bought it last year when I was coming to a conference in Japan, but it was unseasonably, horrifyingly, meltingly hot so I wore something that was not fully lined and didn't also require a camisole underneath.

[Though today it's chilly enough I have a less-flattering jacket over it, sigh]

I might have chosen to wear something different if I'd known I was going to have to crawl under my desk for an earthquake drill, though.
jinian: (racism capy)
It is definitely really weird to have people feel up your hair. Awkward, laughing, freaking out -- it could easily have shaded into bullying. Even if it's one person* whom you like, and even if you're weirdly positioned in the conversation as having the socially-better hair texture. (Is it actually true that some people's hair is so strong it can poke into their skin, or were they messing with me? I kept the terminology at "strong" rather than anything less positive, because wow was that fraught.) She says she wants her hair to be so soft, too. I pointed out that it mostly correlates with color and that stronger hair doesn't break all the time, but she was not dissuaded. I settled on, "I'm sorry, I can't help you," which at least made everyone laugh.

(It was also very strange to be touched at all; I want that a lot right now, actually, but perhaps not in a disturbing, charged context, okay?)

I keep thinking that more white Americans should experience this racial-minority thing, but I'm still creepily advantaged, there's no escaping it. Besides, I don't think the jingoists I grew up around would react to it by understanding the overall dynamic, interpreting it for their situation, or gaining that much empathy.

* Only one woman in the room at the time; the men had more sense or reserve for whatever reason than to try it. I am not ruling out the possibility that I may be mobbed by female labmates at some future time.
jinian: (mokona dessert!)
Today, I made the entire fifth floor of the South Science Building smell of pumpkin pie. It was awesome.

I had to explain the technique of proper pastry, and make it with the "two knives as scissors" method since I couldn't find a pastry cutter at all. People understood the kabocha squash and cinnamon and were excited about them, but the nutmeg and particularly allspice were mystifying. The Hokkaido butter gets unusually hard, so we had to fold the crust in four after the initial rolling, but it worked out very well indeed. Everyone seemed to like it very much.

Despite my calculations beforehand, there was too much pie filling, so we wound up making four pumpkin custards in ramekins. I love that I am working in a lab that has common-use ramekins. Noted for future lab of my own.

(People also asked me the difference between shrimp and prawns. I explained the size difference and also the prevalent confusion of terms.)

So we had an awesome party including the pie, pasta puttanesca, salad, and various pizzas including a teriyaki chicken pizza that, with cheese, was really just too salty. The celebration was because someone's paper was finally getting published after almost a year; I am not entirely clear on how this happened. There was champagne, which fountained onto a bench very festively, and kinpaku, which is sake with gold leaf in.

My own recent paper was rejected tonight, though with largely quite positive comments, so that I think we can easily revise and resubmit. I am not bothered in the slightest, because (1) I was almost hoping for a rejection since they rejected the cosubmitted paper already, which would be hella awkward if they accepted mine -- I rather think that's what the editor was thinking too -- and (2) I got home to find two packages from my ground crew! Thanks, [livejournal.com profile] hattifattener and [livejournal.com profile] marzipan_pig!
jinian: (gir cupcake)
International market means international, not American. I have Tim Tams.

road signs

Nov. 2nd, 2012 03:29 pm
jinian: (Collomia grandiflora)
I've always been mystified by signs painted onto the road and how they're written from bottom (nearer to your car) to top (farther away). I realize it's because you're supposed to encounter the words in that order and thus read them in that order, but it's never actually worked for me. Surely I can't be the only one in whom reading from top to bottom is so hard-coded that if I see there's another word up there I watch it until it's legible.

Thus, I was curious whether the road-painted words here in Japan were written the same way. The characters seemed closer together than the widely spaced words at the old ferry terminal by Kitsap Memorial Park, but that wasn't conclusive. They were in kanji, so even though I can sometimes decode that they say "something something exit" it's not like I can evaluate proper word order.

Today I was walking back into campus from Motoyama, which I haven't done before, and I found words in katakana painted on the pavement. The character closest to me was "n". Well, that settles that!

(Words never begin with the "n" character of the syllabary, because N + consonant doesn't happen there and, for N + vowel, each has its own character. See shiritori.)
jinian: (rarity hmm)
Since the leaves are actually changing colors now, it has become acceptable to wear a color in Japan. A small range of cantaloupe-inflected clear reds may be used. They're actually quite pretty, and based on the trend propagation I've observed so far I expect to see it in the US next fall. You heard it here first.

I did see one truly unfortunate intersection of three trends the other day: this red color, irregular plaid, and short shorts. She might have pulled it out, but she chose beige hose. Ouch.
jinian: (manjuu)
Today's trip for international students was to Nara. I realize I went to Nara on Monday. That's kind of why I went today, actually. I'd been to NAIST (the science university) twice and seen none of Nara proper. Now, having educated myself, I am here to tell you that Nara Park is one of the world's biggest tourist traps. Thus, I have newly minted categories of tourist tat to share with all of you.

1. Can be safely ignored

The vast majority of things fall into this category. In Japan there is a huge market for swanky foods to bring back from wherever you've been to share with your family and colleagues, and generally once you've fulfilled this obligation you need look no further in that vein. Also, Hello Kitty dressed up as a thing is only worth a glance for the most part, and thus are most of the rest of the little gifts disposed of.

2. Kind of amazing and should be photographed to share with others

For instance, this tanuki with bells for testicles.

[If I'd bought him I was sending him to Wim]

3. Horrifying and absolutely must be photographed to share with others

For instance, the patron of the Ueno rest stop, Cat Ninja Lady. There was a whole lot of ninja merchandise inside, but the giant plastic Cat Ninja Lady under whom you must pass to enter was the most amazing and awful thing.

[If there had been T-shirts of her in adult sizes, that might have hit category 5]

4. Striking a personal weakness

THIS IS BREAD WHICH IS ALSO TOTORO

[I kind of regret not buying makkuro kurosuke also]

He contained chocolate pudding! And the white dough was an overlay, his main structure was the brown dough. (No I did not make a Y-incision to dissect him, I didn't have a knife, I ate him like a chocolate bunny ears-first thank you very much.)

I am also now a proud owner of Kiki's Delivery Service toe socks.

5. Too insane not to buy

For those of you who are not currently inundated by his merchandise at every turn, this is Tony Tony Chopper from the still incredibly popular manga One Piece. (He has taken on his own life as Chopperman; I think that is solely a merchandising deal.) Tony Tony Chopper is a reindeer, or caribou.

[It is a plot-related blue nose, FYI]

Now, in Nara, everything is about the deer. There is a good reason for this; the deer in Nara Park will mob you if you are so foolish as to buy deer food, and sometimes if you don't. I saw a deer bite a man's ass today. (They tried to stare me down for a Kit Kat, but I told them off. I think it was my imagination that they understood Japanese better than English.) Schoolchildren squealed fearfully as they tried to elude the deer. Obviously, these terrorist deer are therefore marketed as adorable, or occasionally nobly scenic, on just about every single item in Nara.

[Okay, sometimes also horrifying, and why does it have an egg?]

So, getting back to Tony Tony Chopper, this is a Tony Tony Chopper souvenir from Nara.

Therefore, the deer is dressed up... as a deer.

You see how I had to buy this thing.

[Normally he has only the one face]
jinian: (bad wolf)
I just paid my rent.

First option: the ATM card. Doesn't work, won't do this trick for American cards.

Second option: the post office. Helped me with the ATM cash remittance mode, which is completely non-obvious, but choked when I didn't have a phone number. What? I am not buying a Japanese phone for less than three months' stay.

Third option: the convenience store. I walked in and apologized for my cluelessness, he had me touch a screen,* he took my money and stamped the stub and that was it. But how the hell is rent paid at a convenience store? There is an office right in the dorm lobby, I would have been happy to hand money to them, but no.

My headache is back. But, hey, it was a convenience store, and here that means they sell liquor. I'm going to have umeshu and ramen for dinner now.

* What did I agree to, I wonder? I think it's just some weird ad since I had to do it again when I bought things, though it looked different that time.

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